I’m the sole paddler that I know of — or have ever heard of — who has surfed a tsunami.
Written by Paul McHugh
Paul McHugh was born during a Florida hurricane. At 22, he moved to California by riding a motorcycle cross-country. Writing became his profession, primarily reporting on sports, adventure, and environment and resource issues. He was on the first USA national kayak surfing team that won its division in Ireland in 1988.
For two decades, he was the Outdoors editor/writer for The San Francisco Chronicle. Now he writes novels, with five currently in print. The most recent is “Splinter,” a WWII adventure/romance set in Norway at the dawn of the Nazi occupation, during the rise of a robust citizen Resistance. For more on McHugh’s writings and background, see: PaulMcHughBooks.com.
Location: San Francisco Peninsula, California
I’ve long been a devotee of both risk and endurance sports because of the degree they awaken us to the psychological and physical tools for human survival. In this way, they help to invigorate and exhilarate our present lives, while also educating us about the history of our human evolution.
In addition, I find that inhabiting a present moment with heightened senses in the out-of-doors helps us grasp and appreciate many of the wonders that dwell with us here on this miracle of a planet.
My writing archives and much of my background can be found on my website, PaulMcHughBooks.com.
I’m the sole paddler that I know of — or have ever heard of — who has surfed a tsunami.